Ahh....Barcelona, all Gaudi...all the time. Such an architecturally beautiful city. From all of Gaudi's buildings to the wide boulevards to the charm of the Eixample...just simply amazing. Jesse and I spent a week in Barcelona in March, and loved every minute of it. La Sagrada Familia, Gaudi's catherdal masterpiece, is slated to be completed in 2030. Probably the most impressive catherdral I've ever visited with the influence of nature apparent inside and out. It was the very first place we visited after stepping off the plane and checking into our hotel.
The trip was a role reversal of sorts for us-going to a country where Jesse knew the spoken language. I picked up what I needed to get by, but Jesse was the communicator. We stayed in a great boutique hotel on the outskirts of the Eixample district, a ten minute metor ride from the heart of the city, Placa Catalunya.
Our days were spent wandering the city, soaking up the sunshine while walking La Ramblas, browsing the La Boqueria, and exploring Parc Guell. We went to a La Liga football game, Valencia vs. FC Barcelona at the 98,000 seat Camp Nou. It was an incredible game, with Lionel Messi scoring a hat trick for FC Barcelona, sealing their victory.
We traveled outside of the city one day on a day trip to the Montserrat Shrine, and then to a Catalonian organic wineery. Such a great tour with fanastic weather.
Our time in Spain was much too short, but Spain has earned a place on the "places I really want to return" list. A very hard spot to achieve. So miss it.

Italy: Best and Worst (is it possible?!?!)

Best activity: wine tour
Best weather: Sunday in Venice/Florence after the rain
Best food: Spaghetti with fruitti di mare, Grand Canal, Venice
Best gelato: any
Worst weather: Rain in Venice on the first day
Most uncomfortable: On the vaporetto to Lido
Most relaxing: Cafes in Florence/beach in Lido
Most out of character: Sleeping in without an alarm 2/3 days. Nice! and still go to see plenty
Most educational moment: Understanding the DOCG in Tuscany from Illaria, our guide
WTF moments: 1) passport control at CDG 2)any Italian bathroom
Funniest: 3 for 5 at glass shop on Sunday in Venice
Most pleasant surprise: Hotel on first night (Dona Palace). Most decadent hotel I've ever stayed in for a fraction of the price. When have I ever had a STUDY in my hotel room?!?!?

A week's worth of observations...September 4, 2009

***Could not believe the international out pouring over Ted Kennedy's death. Absolutely astounding.

***Would do a wine and food tour in Tuscany any day - it was fantastic! Traveling in a minivan all over Tuscany as part of a six woman group - priceless!

***Italy smells of leather and pizza and I could be fine if those were the only smells I experience for the rest of my life

***Limiting gelato to once per day is very difficult

***Not sure if I'd fly Alitalia again. Kinda sketchy. AirFrance has more of a chance, but the plane cannot compare in any manner to Virgin Atlantic - the best -that's it.

***Someday, maybe sooner than I expect, I will cash in my FF miles and fly first class - I've been amassing miles for almost 10 years with very little to show.

***I think the guy who say next to Jesse and I when we went to Paris in January 2008 is on the plane - in an exit row - of course, all those miles he accumulated from his uber-exclusive job.

***The flight is late going back to the US - one of the first times we've been this late in all my years

***My bruise from falling at the Duomo in Florence is ridiculous. Of course I would fall on my face in a dress

***Leaving Venice in a water taxi is hands down the best exit from a city. It was almost James Bond like. I could not believe that we arrived at the airport (Marco Polo) in 20 minutes. It made up for not taking the gondola ride in the city.

***Lido is the best. When I return to Venice, I'm going back to Lido and renting a cabana all afternoon - it was fantastic - the sand was so soft, the water so warm. Perfect beach day - such a fan!

***Prosecco or Bellini--love them both. Not sure which I prefer, though partial to the Bellini...

***Shopping, wine, gelato, and chocolate make for the best times on womens vacations...

***Flying transatlantic alone is just not fun. It's much more enjoyable to have someone to talk to about the food with and to make the time go by much faster.

***This has to be my last trip to Europe this year! Twice in one year is incredible. No more trips unless the US dollar tanks even further.

***I really, really want to fly Lufthansa after all the hype I've heard. Is is really as good as its passengers proclaim???

***Finally have made it to Italy, but need to get to Rome. Where else on the list? Austria, Scandinavia, have to think about the rest...

***So glad Raegan and I rented cell phones. It made it much easier to separate. Thank goodness I got the charger to work at the Una Hotel

***Loved all three hotels: Dona Palace, Hotel Brunelleschi, and Una Hotel. All were what we needed in good locations.

***Would stay in Carneggio again. Loved being able to walk to the touristy spots, but with the relaxed vibe of the neighborhood.

***Will wear dresses and skirts when it's hot on vacation. So easy and much moe comfortable than shorts.

***Loved the market in Florence. Loved shopping with Raegan. We had the perfect girls getaway.

Catching up on the last day...September 4, 2009

Arrivederci Venezia...

This was the trip to Europe where I broke all my rules, rigid travel rules, and the result, was a most fantastic vacation:
**multiple days of sleeping in without alarms
**leaving museums unseen and being OK with that
**spending hours in cafes
**going to the beach (and having a cabana!)

Italy was the best - wish I had more time. One week, and we did a lot but I would love to visit Rome and Sicily (and Naples...to see my family's home).

But for what I saw...and lived...six days was plenty. And then can I go back? My backpack is even lighter than when I left...a first!

Observations during that week in Italy...

***Taking the train in Italy is very similar to taking the train in France. Why can't Amtrak get its act together and run itself more efficiently?!?!

***Would love it if the US had piazzas, but it would be overrun with teenagers on skateboards and laden with crime. It's too bad I am so cynical about the US but I think it really speaks to the differences between US and European cities/cultures.

***Can Rick Steves hire me as a freelance archivist?

***Trains are efficient. Have taken them about 90% more in Europe than in the US:

1997 September to November:
*London to Stratford-Upon-Avon
*Stratford-Upon-Avon to Edinburgh
*Edinburgh to Inverness
*Inverness to Edinburgh
*Edinburgh to London
*London to Paris

*Paris to Rennes
*Rennes to Strasbourg
*Rennes to Geneva
*Rennes to Bruseels
*Brussels to Amsterdam
*Amsterdam to Berlin
*Berlin to Paris
*Paris to Rennes
*Rennes to Paris
*Rennes to Charles deGaulle (CDG)

2008:
*Paris to Rennes

I heart SNCF. TrenItalia is pretty OK too!

First impressions of Italy...August 29, 2009

Ahhh....the Grand Canal from the Rialto Bridge, my first day in Italy



Here goes...transcribed from journals....

My backpack and I have landed in Italy. After a crowded flight from Boston to Rome with only two hours of sleep, I'm now waiting to board a flight to Venice.

The Rome International airport is a sprawling facility, complete with the standard European mall just after you clear the initial customs area. The security check was probably one of the most chaotic I've experienced. The late passport control was a first - at the last minute before entering the domestic terminal.

I still can't believe I'm in Italy. I kept my eyes glued to the window as we landed this morning. I was thinking about all the early morning European landings I've made - 8 to be exact - and this probably the sunniest and the warmest. Traveling in the shoulder and off-season is usually less expensive but tends to be chillier or even down right cold since I've been to Europe three times in the winter!

I remember the first time I came to Europe, landing in Brussels being in awe of the hot towels distributed just before landing. The Brussels airport is huge and I had a six hour layovers, so Shannon and I traveled into the city - lounging in the Grand Place and eating Belgian waffles with Nutella. We continued on to Heathrow where I had to produce my return plane ticket to passport control to prove I actually was going to France to study in 10 days. Hard to believe I was 19 and so naive, wearing my flannel shirt and Mom-like Levi's - how things have changed.

It's a sunny, warm morning and as I gaze out the window, I see Alitalia planes, too numerous to count. I'll be getting on another one soon to continue my journey. This will be one of the first times I've landed in another country, where I don't speak the language and I will navigate on my own to Raegan's hotel. Flying long distances by yourself is lonely, the worst was going to Australia, but this has the added challenge or a language barrier. Should be entertaining.

Random observations:
***It's really funny that whenever I hear a foreign language I revert to French!!! Even in Italy when I'm not even remotely speaking French. (This happened after buying a croissant at an airport snack bar...)

***It's really surreal to be sitting in an airport in Italy and watching news updates from Ted Kennedy's funeral. I had no idea of the importance of his death outside of the United States.

Ahhh...Italy....dispatches from last summer

So, I went to Italy last summer for the first time, and had an amazing time with my friend and travel buddy Raegan (my roommate in Boston for 7 years). Though I haven't published in a while, I haven't been totally silent. I blogged old school while in Italy. I hurried into the Borders Express at Logan right before boarding my flight to Rome...and searched...and searched...and searched some more before finally finding a set of notebooks. Maybe a little fancier than I would have preferred, but still I was feeling the need to write...so I did. About Venice, about Florence, about trains, my gut instinct to respond in French no matter what language is posed to me. And finally, here are the results...

Summer 2009: lots of traveling with the green backpack

So this summer, my backpack accompanied me to Austin, Texas for a few days in August, and then to Italy: Venice and Florence for a week in late August-early September. Since nothing has been posted since my Amstel obsession of July 2009: here's proof that it really did travel this summer. This was taken when I was packed up in Florence, ready to train it back to Venice. So...more to come...just been a slacker since I got back two weeks ago...

Amstel Light obsession...

There are a bunch of new Amstel Light billboards all over Allston and Brighton. I pass one of them on my way to work every morning. "Dam Good Bier" the billboard proclaims with dimly light Amsterdam canal houses in the background. It works. I see the billboard...remember my time in Amsterdam...and want an Amstel Light. Unfortunately, it's usually at 8:42 AM when I'm on the bus, crushed between commuters.

The billboards hardly measure up to this Amstel ads which highlight the city, and its beer. When I get nostalgic for Amsterdam, I usually just give it a play. Not to mention I've loved the Fratellis for quite some time:

the countdown begins...

3 months from today my backpack and I are off to Italy. Venice, Florence, and wherever else the journey takes us for the week before Labor Day. Can't wait to go. The tickets are booked, just the hotels, trains, and activities left...lots of ideas, but so little time. still can't believe I'm finally going...

I love it when Rick Steves name checks places my backpack and I have visited! Especially when it's the Tassenmuseum Hendrikje (Museum of Bags and Purses)
Check it out: Rick wrote about Amsterdam, as in this story on CNN.com.

a month ago today...

Amsterdam...sunset. Just a month ago. This was taken at the end of day spent riding trams, subway cars, and commuter rail tains as we crammed as much as we could into our last full day in the Netherlands.

• The morning was spent finding the one souvenir I wanted from Amsterdam: an Ajax sweatshirt. Marco van Basten was my fave footballer growing up. Well, maybe the only player I followed. I had a Diadora poster in my room, and he was one of six European players on it...and the only name I ever remembered. He played for the Ajax in the 80s and then AC Milan later, and now is the coach of the Ajax. We visited the Amsterdam ArenA, via subway on the outskirts of the city, and I found a hoodie in the Fanshop. AND when we went outside, the team was practicing, and I got to see MVB from way, far away, but still it was a sighting. Jesse has much better pictures than me.

• In the afternoon, we traveled to Haarlem via commuter rail train (20 mins. or so), just to get out of the city. If I'm spending a vacation in one city, I love to just get out of its confines, even if it's just for an hour (like our jaunt to Haarlem). We got off the train, walked to the Grote Markt, home to St. Bevo Cathedral, and the largest pipe organ in Europe (played by Handel and Mozart); and literally turned around and went back to Amsterdam. We took the 3 pm train to Haarlem, and we were back in Amsterdam by 4:15.

We finished off the day with Dutch pancakes (or pannekoeks), and Heineken and Genever at our favorite bar across from our hotel...

Despite the outstanding, savory pancakes I had for dinner, the Belgian fries from the Manneken Pis Belgian fry stand on the Damrak was the best food I had that day. Piping hot and covered with mayo...my mouth is watering just remembering....Best fries in Amsterdam...we stopped twice.

I miss Iceland!

The Blue Lagoon. I could soak in it all day. This was snapped in April 2007 on our way in to the Blue Lagoon when I visited Iceland with Denise, Louisa, and Elizabeth. Soaking in the geothermal spa was literally the last thing we did in this Arctic country; we stowed our luggage on a bus and went directly to the airport for our flight back to Boston.
Probably the most relaxing place my backpack has been...and definitely on the list of top 10 places I would return to in a heartbeat.

Canals. Bikes. Amsterdam.

This is my favorite picture from Amsterdam. It was snapped from the basement gallery of the Amsterdam Tulip Museum, located in a canal house about 100 meters from the Anne Frank House. It was my second visit to the city, my last eleven years ago. In 1997, I was 20, traveling through the city on our way to Berlin; my green backpack was glued to me since we were only in town for a few hours, enough time to visit the Anne Frank House, make a quick visit to Rembrandt's House, and to scarf down some Chinese food. No Heineken Brewery. No Van Gogh. No art. Less than seven hours and back on the night train to Berlin.

I couldn't believe how much I forgot about Amsterdam--the canals, the ever friendly, English speaking (to the point of guilt) Dutch people, the diverse food. It's a city much more laid back than other European cities. Some may say this is due to some laxed substance laws, but it was a relief to not feel like you were walking the catwalk during Fashion Week as I felt from time to time in Paris last year.

The best trips have no itineraries

Last month I visited my friend Raegan in DC. It was kinda a last minute thing...I was waiting for just the right airfare...which never happened. But I was excited to catch up with Raegan who had been my roommate in Brookline for the last 7 years, up until June. We casually joked before I left that I "would do some research"...being an information professional...it's kinda my thing. And other friends asked me what I was going to do in DC, and I just replied, "coffee and shopping"...very uncharacteristic for me.
So, I left for my weekend in DC...changing planes in Newark, which I will do everything to avoid in the future. After 2 delayed departures in Boston, an hour on the tarmac at Logan, and a 2.5 hour delay in Newark for my connection, I was in DC. Thank goodness for once in my life I resisted the overpacking urge, and carried on. I read all 495 pages of Twilight while in transit, finishing the last page while landing at Reagan-National.
When I finally met up with Raegan, she was surprised to learn that I had done absolutely no research on DC. I had seen all the sights on multiple school trips, business trips, and vacations, and was kinda touristed out of DC. My Dad made sure to remind me 10 times before I left that the Smithsonian Museum of American History had just re-opened after a massive renovation, but that was just not on my radar.
So, what did I do for the 36 hours I was in DC? I had coffee and shopped, and ate great food at local places. Got a really cool hat at World Market. Bought the second Twilight book. Went to Loehmann's. Shopped pre-Christmas sales for ourselves. We bought wine in a beaker-type bottle. We watched fashion television. Walked all over Georgetown before decidicing on a place for dinner. Visited some "Irish" pubs--not sure if thye'd pass for Irish pubs in Boston. Overheard some really interesting conversations on the Metro explaining the difference between a "pimp" and a "whore enabler". We went to a great jazz brunch. Saw a Santa pub crawl and a real live walking Christmas tree (well, someone dressed up as one with presents to boot). We walked the National Mall. My one sole touristy thing was seeing the national Christmas tree. Check in that box.
And then it was time to go home, another Newark derailed trip, but luckily I got switched to a direct flight. I did a lot of unplanned and fun stuff...which is a big step for someone who has been dubbed the "master planner" by friends. The person who is handed the map, and figures out which metro line to take no matter the city. The attraction spreadsheet maker, currency converter, and translator.
It was not a matter of having plans, but a matter of being with friends...something that I've been slowly realizing over years of traveling with friends and with Jesse. When an innkeeper in Galway told me, "you've come to a door, but you haven't gone through it," upon hearing the regimented day I had planned to taking us (me, Louisa, Denise, and Glod) away from Connemara, the rustic, rural, picturesque area to the west, I stopped, and realized that traveling is about being flexible. Something that hasn't always come to me, the structure-lover. After a quick conference in our Ford Focus, the four of us were on our way to Connemara...abandoning our original plans. And I was ok with that--something changed in me that instant.
Traveling is not about how many museums, monuments, or battlefields you see (don't tell my Dad that), it's about enjoying the time with your companions, and just letting yourself adapt to a city, culture, country. And carrying-on whenever possible.A

Second hardest business trip to come home from...

The beach cliffs in La Jolla, CA....just a few short blocks from my dorm at UCSD (University of California-San Diego). After spending all day working with command prompts sans programmers, and worrying about saving electronic files for infinity, you needed to relax. And the beach was where you went. With fellow archivists. And we hiked the cliffs. (and celebrated our achievement with beverages in front of Asante House!)

San Francisco had warmer weather than La Jolla in July, but being sent to California twice in one summer is heaven on Earth!

The hardest business trip to come home from...

I'm still on West Coast time. My body still thinks it is in San Franciscio. I just got back from nine days in the most gorgeous weather I've ever experienced in California. I was there 5 days for a conference, and an extra 4 for a wee bit of rest and relaxation. Jesse flew out to join me on at the tail end of the business of portion.

My green backpack was able to join me for my second foray to the West Coast this year. In July I had a difficult time leaving San Diego, but this was worse. I stayed in the middle of the top ranked walking city in the US. I purchased my weeklong Muni pass on the second day I was there, and I was off riding the Muni underground, the F line streetcar, the cable cars, and the Muni buses. I walked the Embarcadero, up and down the steep hills of Hyde, Mason, and California streets; and paths of Golden Gate Park. I shopped at Zara (first time ever, and loved it!), and had my Jamba Juice. Jesse and I met my cousin for fondue at the Matterhorn, and had fantastic drinks in pineapples at the Tonga Room. We visited Alcatraz, City Lights bookstore, Muir Woods, and Sausalito. I couldn't believe how much of the city's geography I retained. From remembering the location of AT&T Park to Safeway in the Marina district that I bought groceries at seven years earlier, it was an eerie sense deja vu minus my Dad.

My flights worked out well. For years, I shied away from JetBlue in favor of miles and better times on American. I'm coming back to JetBlue on a regular basis. I few them to Seattle three years ago, and it was a good value. This trip was fantastic. I loved the tvs. I watched Samantha Brown and some What Not to Wear on TLC, and I was set. I also loved the free Doritos Munchies.

Oh, it was hard to leave the rainless, perfect temperature weather. And the clean Muni. And the Swedish pancakes at Sears. And of course Zara. A trip back will certainly be sooner than seven years...

Aller-Retour and Rochester

Just got in from a quick work trip to Rochester, NY. Home of Kodak, Xerox, and the Red Wings AAA team. I visited the Strong National Museum of Play. Seriously, it was all about play. There was a section all on Sesame Street, the International Toy Hall of Fame, and a Butterfly Garden with 38 varieties from around the world. And I went to my dinner and meeting.

Flying there was interesting. I carried on--first time ever since I always overpack. And sat next to the same person out and back. Random. The best part was I was at home in Brookline a half hour after landing at Logan.

Didn't bring my backpack...I needed a briefcase for my meeting. Probably the fastest flying trip I've ever taken. Fly in yesterday, leave today. Getting set for Indy in a few weeks....

Ahh..Paris. Even if it's in a maggie.

Gargoyles. Argh. I bought National Geographic Traveler tonight as an escape from the dreary Winter. I saw the feature on Paris on the cover, and I was eager to read all of tips on lodging, museums, and most importantly, the food. As I flipped the pages, there was an image taken from the top of Notre Dame cathedral with the gargoyles in the foreground, overlooking the Seine. It was the same image I saw just over a month ago. As I squinted at the picture, I could see the rugby/soccer shop where Jesse bought his jersey. The bright yellow canopy brightly set the shop apart from the river walls. I closed my eyes, and I was there, the cold, brisk wind blowing in my face, the gleaming mid-Winter sun drenching the observation desk.

Even as a I sat on the green line train engrossed in the article, reading each listing to see if I had visited it last month, I felt as if I was in Paris, just taking the Metro line 4 back to Boulevard du Raspail. So ready to reutrn...

first trip with another backpack....

I just got back from Paris. It was my first trip without my green backpack in 13 years. My purple one filled in just fine, providing appropriate storage for my carry-on junk (I'm a heavy packer!), my laptop, and other trinkets I carried to and from Paris.

Paris was fantastic. It was chilly, but not cold (around 45-50 degrees), and without the crowds of even shoulder season (Fall, when I was there last). January is the best time to come to Paris. The government mandated sales mean slashed priced at almost every store, from the high end boutiques to "les grands magasins"/department stores, to even smaller local specialty shops. The lines at attractions, if there were any, moved quickly.

I was very relieved that my French held up well in the city. Since we stayed in Montparnasse, an area in the 14th on the left bank, removed from many tourist areas, it gave me the chance to speak in French, not only for convenience, but for functioning. Three times I was complimented on my French, and the look of surprise on the peoples' faces was priceless when I said American.

The next trip I take to Paris, I hope to delve deeper into the less "touristy" spots of the city, since I've now covered all the "must sees" twice. Going back as an adult allowed me to explore all of the places that I missed during my last visit 10 years ago, when I was a naive 19/20 year old backpacker.

When I arrived at home, my green LL Bean backpack was waiting for me. It had been repaired in Maine, and sent back to me. New zippers, new zipper tabs. Same old backpack. It's been to Paris once, maybe its next trip will be somewhere new.